Tense Visit to the DMZ

As most folks know, the 4km wide buffer between North and South Korea is known as the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). This border is the most heavily defended in the world, established as part of a cease-fire agreement in the 1950s. With the recent furor over the sinking of a South Korean warship by, apparently, a North Korean torpedo, this is probably not the best time to get a closer look at the DMZ. With our impending departure, however, our options were limited so we made the effort last Saturday.

With a muddled reservation at the USO office, only Cora and Brian were making the trip. After a serious briefing by a US military officer at Camp Bonifas, we were on our way to Panmunjom, the Joint Security Area that is a multi-nation facility on a small spit of land extending past the DMZ into North Korea. The site is characterized by blue buildings arranged along a line with stern looking officers from both sides staring each other down. This is a must see: the dividing line between two nations that are still at war.

In a break from the usual plan, the bus stopped just short of the JSA. We were dumped in the "gift shop" and told that we would be there for some time. Not even a minute later, our military minder burst in and ordered everyone back on to the bus... "Now!" He literally ran alongside the bus, ordering barricades be cleared and making the way safe for a hasty retreat. Yikes! This wasn't in the brochure!

The two intrepid travelers were still able to view the North at a safe distance via the Dora observatory. As well, we saw the "3rd Tunnel", an underground incursion tunnel that was secretly carved under the DMZ through solid granite. The JSA, however, was off limits as the state of military readiness was moved to the second-highest level.

While this heightened state of watchfulness makes for high drama along the DMZ, sadly the regular citizens of North Korea continue to suffer as they are cut off from information and modern advancements that could dramatically improve their quality of life. Our friends on the "inside" still struggle to provide sustainable development opportunities and immediate relief from illness and hunger. It will be interesting to see how this changes as these fraternal nations seek some sort of future together.